Day 25 - Olympic NP to Crescent Bar, WA

Elevation = 780 ft (was 4,036 ft at Stevens Pass)

Song of the Day = “Breakaway” by Kelly Clarkston (embarrassing but true)

This morning I have a mission… to pick up Twilight merchandise in Forks. (If you’ve never read the Twilight series, it’s based in Forks, WA). Everyone in town seems to be cashing in on the Twilight craze. There are stores named “Native to Twilight”, “Twilight Central”, “Twilight Headquarters”, and “Dazzled by Twilight”. One hotel has a sign that reads “Edward didn’t sleep here!” and another has a sign reading “Welcome to the Twilight Zone”. Even the grocery store has a Twilight merchandise section. I stop at Twilight Central to fill up on souvenirs for Mary and Amber (and get a Team Jacob magnet for myself – I mean seriously? Taylor Lautner vs RPats? How is this even a contest?), fill up on supplies at the grocery store, and then over to the Forks Post Office to mail my Twilight postcards.

I follow 101 North, passing gorgeous Lake Crescent. 

Views of Lake Crescent along 101 East

More Lake Crescent

I get out of the car and take a long walk partway around the lake, and continue on into the town of Port Angeles. It’s time for lunch, so I head to the Peaks Brewery. It look like a dive from the outside (and the inside), and the menu has three items on it (chili, chili dog, chili cheeseburger). The chili is made by the owner/bartender/brewer, and is pretty good and very spicy. The beer (I had the ESB) is AMAZING. I would give my left tit to be able to brew like this. It is, honestly, one of the best beers I have ever had in my entire life. Peaks Brewery, Port Angeles. Check it out.

Peaks Brewpub, Port Angeles

For the first time in over a week, I say goodbye to 101, and head east on 104 through Port Gamble (what an adorable little town) to Kingston. There, I catch the car ferry to Edmonds. I have to admit, I’ve never driven a car onto a ferry and I’m kind of excited about the whole thing. The Focus is too, I can tell.  I arrive just in time for the 3:10 sailing, pay my $15.20, and line up with the other cars.  When the time comes, we drive down a ramp, and then are directed to our spot. The entire thing is extremely organized and goes off without a problem (probably because the other people have done this a million times and are secretly laughing at the idiot with Ohio plates taking pictures of her car). I stroll around the ferry, enjoying the view and taking more pictures. What’s super weird is sitting in your car. You can see that you’re moving, but you aren’t touching the wheel or any pedals and the car is off. It really does feel a bit odd.

On the ferry and ready to go!

View of Seattle with Mt. Rainier in the background

Hello Cascades!

Goodbye, Olympics!

Once in Edmonds, I navigate Rt 524 to I-5 North, which has very heavy traffic at this time of day. I am relieved to exit onto Rt 2 towards the Cascades. The traffic slowly peels off through Snohomish and Sultan. I head up and over the Cascades, noting that snow is still firmly entrenched here. I had originally planned on camping here tonight (or making it to Pullman), but I don’t think either is going to happen. I drop down the Cascades over Stevens Pass, and into another world.

What do you think of when you think of Washington State? Forests, oceans, mountains? How about a Mediterranean looking landscape complete with cliffs and buttes ala southern Utah? Well, that’s how the eastern slope of the Cascades looks. In the city of Wenatchee I start looking for a hotel. The entire city seems to be one charmless, never-ending string of strip malls, and I continue down 28, following the Columbia River. My needs for a hotel aren’t difficult… it must be locally owned (no chains), and I prefer those 1960s-era places with the little individual cottages around a central courtyard. I pass nothing of the sort as I continue on toward Quincy. The sun is starting to go down as I pass a tiny city clustered far below Rt 28 in a bend in the river. It’s a beautiful spot. I hastily exit, and drive down a cliff towards Crescent Bar (it’s not even on my road atlas). There aren’t any hotels, but there is an RV park. I find out later that the entire city is one very large privately owned resort.

No, I didn't take this picture, but this is what Crescent Bar resort looks like.

After rousing the attendant, I get a spot right on the river for a staggering $52 (yikes! I just want to camp, not purchase the lot!!). It turns out that a tent is a bit of an oddity here… a group of senior citizens gathers to watch me set it up and asks tons of questions. “What is that yellow doo-hickey?” “That’s the rain fly – keeps the rain out.” “But it’s not supposed to rain tonight.” “True, but there’s nothing worse than chancing it and being wrong. Besides, it’s warmer in the tent with it on”. “That tent isn’t heated?” “Ummmm…. No, sir. It’s not”. I drink the last of my Boont Amber Ale and for $52, I will use every amenity here. I swim in the pool, sit in the hot tub, and use the nice, hot showers.