Elevation = 2000ft
Mileage = 349 mi
Song of the Day = “Scarlet Begonias” by The Grateful Dead
As I loaded up the car today, I noticed that the campers across the road were nowhere to be seen. It was a mother and 2 pre-teen girls, and as they set up last night, I remember them saying that they had never set up a tent before. Then they left, and hadn’t been back to the campsite since (unless they got back after 10pm and left before 6am… doubtful. But their car and the tent were still there. Huh. I reported it to the ranger on the way out… I hope the people took one look at the tent and decided to walk to a hotel… but why not take down the tent and drive? Hopefully they are okay.
As I head south on 64 out of the park, my feelings for the Grand Canyon are mixed. It is undeniably incredible, and obviously a draw for people all over the world (judging by the number of languages spoken). However, the park is under a lot of pressure due to its popularity. It is the third most visited park in the country, and most of those people are crowded around the South Rim/Grand Canyon Village area. The National Park Service is doing its best… shuttle buses on the popular routes, plenty of distractions… but it seems almost too planned and too slick. It reminds one of Disneyworld… minus the guard rails. I don’t have a solution – other than to take an idea from Edward Abbey and make everyone walk, ride a bike or a horse into the park. I’m not sad to leave, especially after rolling through the string of tacky-ville right outside the park limits. IMAX! Navajo jewelry! Flintstones Park!!! (Do you have licensing rights, mister???) Wild West Show!! Pan for Gold!!
I drive east on 180 through the Coconino National Forest and past Humphrey’s Peak (highest point in Arizona!). It is an oasis of cool, fragrant glades in the middle of the high desert. However, in the center of the forest is a huge clear cut area. Hopefully this is past fire damage, but if not, you suck, BLM.
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| BLM - What happened here? |
After a stress-filled series of wrong turns in Flagstaff (including a brief and inadvertent visit to I-40 East), I find my way to Alt 89 towards Sedona. This follows the Oak Creek Canyon down a series of cliffs… another amazingly beautiful drive! I would rank this drive right up there with 280/95 in Utah, except for the number of tailgaters. I’m already speeding, jerk-off. If you’re going to ride my ass that hard, you should at least buy me dinner first! I reach Sedona, which is undeniably gorgeous but very touristy. Other than poking around in jewelry shops (over 24 hours since last shower… the clerks don’t show much interest in me) for a few minutes, there isn't much left. I don’t need my tarot read, my chakras aligned, or my aura cleansed, so the only thing to do is eat lunch. I pass a place advertising “Street Tacos” for $5, the Taos Cantina. The margaritas are 2 for 1, and the bartender is aghast that I’m only going to have one. “But they’re two for one! It’s one free!” she keeps repeating. I decline, and after a decent lunch (I’ve never seen a street taco with cheese and guacamole), I head back to the car. It’s almost 100 degrees and getting into the car is like stepping into a blast furnace. My lip balm melted into a puddle on the dashboard, and the solar water bag has topped out at 104. The air-conditioning tries feebly to keep up, and fails. All I want to do is go somewhere non-sweat inducing.
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| Downtown Sedona |
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| More Downtown Sedona |
“Screw this whole side-roads thing”, I mutter to myself and rocket along in air conditioned comfort down I-17 towards Phoenix. Pool! Shower! Laundry! And real tacos at Los Favoritos Taco Shop for dinner! Happppppeeeee! Yummmmmyyyyy!
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