Day 9 - The Grand Canyon

Elevation = 7000 ft

Miles hiked = 6.4

Up early again, ready to greet the day and beat the crowds! After a hurried breakfast and most minor of ablutions, I hurry over to the General Store to mail some postcards, and pick up my usual souvenirs (refrigerator magnet, another postcard) before hiking. The store is closed. Huh. I double check my watch – should have opened 45 minutes ago. I turn on my cell phone… it appears I have changed time zones. Well, that explains the whole late sunset thing last night.

Although the shuttle buses to Bright Angel are empty, there is a horde of people milling around at the trailhead. Most are obviously preparing for the descent, with sturdy boots and packs filled with water bottles. However, there are a few people preparing to descend in nothing more than flip-flops and jeans, clutching their cups of coffee. Luckily (or unluckily, depending on your views on Darwinism) a ranger is speaking with them. Too many people, no matter how well recommended it comes. I decide to head over to Hermit’s Rest.

Based on suggestions from the shuttle driver last night, I get off at Maricopa Point to hike the Rim Trail over to Hermit’s Rest. From Maricopa Point, it is about 6.4 miles of relatively level walking, then a short descent to the first stop on the Hermit’s Rest trail into the canyon. Easy, right?

Luckily, the Rim Trail is deserted at this hour. I have it mostly to myself, with the exception of small groups at the bus stops/viewpoints. As its name might suggest, the trail leads along the rim of the canyon, many times RIGHT along the rim, and there is nothing between you, a misstep and a mighty long fall – I LOVE IT! You can sit for an hour with your feet dangling into thin air, and no one bothers you. Of course, the ledge you are sitting on might crumble into the canyon, but we all take risks in life. Although the trail is paved between Bright Angel and Powell Point, it thankfully becomes a narrow dirt track after Powell. Paved surfaces are incredibly hard on your joints. Be kind to your knees… you will miss them when they are gone (plus, knee surgery really sucks). The walk is quiet, and so incredibly beautiful. I take about 50 pictures, but none of them can do the real thing justice.

You can kind of see the Colorado River in this one... that kind of tiny white thing in the middle

After reaching Monument Creek Vista, the crowds pick up again and the trail returns to pavement (seriously, did they truck in the entire old folks home population of Arizona?) But I shouldn’t make fun of old people, because between Pima Point and Hermit’s Rest, my knees start to ache. Then they become painful. Then they become intensely painful. Then they become excruciatingly painful. I limp into Hermit’s Rest, swallow a few Advil, rub Tiger Balm all over my legs, do a few stretches, and wait 30 minutes. Then I attempt to go down the Hermit’s Rest trail. BTW - a video is worth 50 pictures... below is a video from Hopi Point. Along with the fucktard quote of the day.

You know what’s hard on your knees? Paved surfaces. Do you know what’s really hard on them? Steep downhills on rocky, cobblestone surfaces. I make it a few hundred yards before I am limping again. It’s a case of the spirit is willing, but the flesh is weak (although definitely not in the original meaning considering I lack the necessary factory installed equipment). Again, be kind to your knees, you’ll miss them when they are gone. I turn around and head back up before I can do permanent damage.

This. This is Mormon Tea. This time I ate the right thing.

I was just sitting with my feet dangling over these rocks. Initial drop... 300 feet.

Considering that it is still before 4pm, it is time for a shower and then a visit to the rest of Grand Canyon. The tacky side. Armed with a new enthusiasm for gaudy fabulousness, I clean up and head out. First stop, the Visitor’s Center, then the Yavapai Geology Museum, then over to the Bright Angel/El Tovar area. The Visitor’s Center is okay (it has a great relief map of the canyon and another of the National Parks of the Colorado Plateau), and I watch a movie about the canyon’s formation. I feel better, and decide to walk over to the Geology Museum. Well, if the Rim Trail was full of senior citizens, the Geology Museum is filled with the entire K-9 population of the US. I decide it is time to head back to camp for some relaxation (at least the elderly ladies walking around in their bras – must… scrub… brain… with… vodka…-  are gone).

I love the NPS posters!

I’m not sure how I feel about the Grand Canyon. The entire operation is very slick – it reminds one of Disneyland - but it seems somewhat jarring when juxtaposed against the natural beauty of the canyon. As much as I appreciate some tackiness (witness my undying love for the Mystery Hole in Hawk’s Nest, WV), it somehow seems wrong. Somewhat dispirited, I head back to camp for a re-read of Desert Solitaire and dinner.