Day 7 - Canyonlands National Park

Elevation = 6500 ft

Miles walked = 6.5

Again, it’s up early at 6:00am, with another breakfast of pancakes and sausages. I am happy to not have to break down the camp, and with a light heart and sense of anticipation, I head for the Island in the Sky district. Canyonlands has 4 distinct districts, Island in the Sky (atop a huge mesa), the Needles, the Maze and the Rivers. Except for Island in the Sky, each requires a lot of effort/time and a 4 wheel drive vehicle. I doubt that the Focus is up to that task. 

I stop in at the Visitor’s Center – not as nice or informative as Arches, but note that there is no water services (will have fill up the water jugs later). However, I get some hiking advice from the pleasant lady behind the counter (don’t walk over wet slickrock, especially with this wind – I think I’ve already learned that one) and set off into the park. 

I stop for a warm-up at Mesa Arch – a 0.5 mile walk. And I am glad I did because it is simply fabulous. The arch is perched on the edge of a cliff, with views of the canyons through it. You can even walk on top of the arch if you desire (I decide not to tempt fate), but best of all, I am virtually alone on the trail. On the walk back, I am joined by Dan, from Somerville, MA. We chat about Tufts and the changes to Davis Square since I graduated, and part ways in the parking lot.

Prickly pear along the trail

Canyonlands as seen through Mesa Arch

Um, yeah. It's awesome.

I drive to Grandview Trail – a 2 mile cliff walk at the end of the mesa. In the distance, you can see the other districts of the park, and Confluence Point, where the Colorado and Green Rivers meet (almost 3000 feet below where I am standing). It is magnificent – and I am completely enchanted. I want to come back here and spend days navigating the 4 wheel trails and rafting the river. 

Edge of the cliff at Grandview point looking east. 1000 feet below is the white rim trail, which is accessible only by 4 WD vehicles. In the distance are the Needles district and Confluence Point, and in the far far distance, the La Sal and Abajo Mountains.

More views along Grandview trail. I love the fact that there is no guard rail - Darwinism at work!

Looking west towards the Green River.

More views to the west.

View to the northwest

Indian paintbrush... blooming!

And more views looking east (I have about 50 of these... I took a  LOT of pictures)

At the end of the hike, there is a ranger-led talk on the history of the area starting in just a few minutes. I am joined again by Pat and Carol, the couple from Sun Valley I met yesterday. We chat for a few minutes, then give Ranger Julie our full attention. Most of the talk focuses on the history of uranium mining in the region, and also on the various rock strata. Julie is great – entertaining, earnest and knowledgeable. After the talk, I compliment her and ask her to identify some plants which I, ummm, might have eaten earlier (in a purely scientific interest. But don’t tell Julie this because it’s illegal to pick at the plants.) Turns out that I wasn’t chewing on Mormon Tea, but on sagebrush instead. Well, at least it’s not toxic.

I head to Upheaval Dome next. This is a circular “hole” about 4 miles in diameter that appears to have been blasted out of the mesa. In the center is a great pile of white (for lack of a better term) rock, in contrast to the red rocks around it. There are two prevailing theories as to how it formed – one is that layers of salt under the rock worked their way upwards, the other is that it is the result of a meteor strike. 

Upheaval dome from the viewpoint. Not so much a dome as a large pile of loose white rocks.

More of Upheaval Dome. For perspective, the far rim (the red stuff, not the white stuff) is about 3 miles away.

Either way, I’m excited to see it. The hike is about 4 miles round trip, and is rated as “Easy” by Moon Guide to Arches and Canyonlands National Park. Well, fuck you, Moon Guide. The hike is straight up and down slickrock with toe holds cut in the surface so you can get to the next rock cairn. Even though it is maybe 60 degrees out, the sun warms the rock, making it feel like you are hiking through a furnace. As I am making my final descent to the viewpoint, I run into Somerville Dan coming up the trail. He is breathing hard, covered in sweat and dust. He grimly nods and says “This fucking sucks” before heading on. And it does.

It doesn't look that bad in pictures. But check out the black specks/people on the top of the cliff face in the way distance. Yeah, those are not trees.

Straight up! Just follow the rock cairns!

I return to the car with legs trembling, caked in sweat, and rank enough for people to give me a wide berth. Even though it is early still, I decide to call it a day and head into Moab. But first, I refill my water at Arches Visitor Center (bless you Arches, you rock!) As I am filling up the last container, I hear a hearty “Why hello! You find campsite?!” It is Austrian guy – also filling up on water. He chuckles when I tell him that I am happily ensconced at Oak Grove. “You pay $12 for that! Hah! Last night I hid in bushes on BLM land. They never see me!” He bounds off, presumably to use the toilets.

Prior to Moab, a shower is a necessity. Since the BLM sites along the Colorado are all primitive (pit toilets, no water available), I head to the Slickrock RV park (thanks Ron, their bathrooms are quite clean!). I tell the lady at the counter that I’d like to purchase a shower. She looks at me and replies “Yes, you do”. When I finally look at myself in the mirror for the first time in 3 days, I can see why. My face is caked in red dust (except where rivulets of sweat have run), I have a large black smudge on my cheek and there is something that looks suspiciously like blood under my left ear (where the hell did that come from?).

Afterwards, clean, smelling like soap and freshly attired, I hit Moab. I impulsively decide to stop at Moab Brewery for a drink. And I am glad that I did. It is crowded, even though it is a Tuesday at 4pm. I order a Hefeweizen (delicious) and notice that every single person at the bar is eating hot wings. I order some, and they are wonderful, spicy, falling off the bone tender. These are the best wings I have ever eaten! I strike up a conversation with the guy next to me – a retiree from LA named Phil. He is out in Moab 4-wheeling with a buddy. We talk about my trip, and he recommends that I skip Four Corners (“Nothing but dust and four lines in the sand”) and go to Monument Valley instead. Deal. I almost order more wings, but remember that I have a steak in the car for tonight.

On that note… is there anything more delicious than a porterhouse steak cooked perfectly (charred on the outside, mooing on the inside) over a wood fire? With fire-grilled asparagus? I doubt it. The sun goes down, the stars come out, and I have s’mores for dessert and a bit of rum in my coffee. Life doesn’t get any better than this.